With an area of just over 2 million square kilometres, Greenland is the largest island in the world, nestled in the North Atlantic Ocean, east of Canada. Interestingly, its name in Danish means “green land,” which was a clever marketing strategy by the Viking Erik the Red to attract settlers. In reality, over 80% of Greenland is covered by ice. Home to around 56,000 people primarily living along the coast, it stands as the least populated dependent territory in the world.

Self-Evident, but Not Quite

Greenland boasts a handful of towns and numerous small settlements, often consisting of just a few dozen residents. About one-third of the population resides in the capital, Nuuk, where approximately 80% are Inuit, with the remainder primarily Danish. Nuuk is the island’s hub, featuring the only shopping centre, university, general hospital, and underground garage. Basic services—like stores, banks, and health centres—are limited to larger towns. For those in remote areas, relocating to the city for education and employment is often necessary. For example, in a village of 80, if there are five school-aged children, one teacher provides education up to the 6th grade, after which families must move to complete their schooling. Jobs are scarce, and finding affordable housing is a challenge. Although new residential developments are underway, costs remain prohibitive for the average resident.

What Does Inaccessible Mean?

Greenland’s towns and villages are not connected by roads; the shifting ice and rugged terrain make road construction unfeasible. In this land, a boat is often more useful than a car. Despite this, Nuuk has a notable number of cars, and public transport is reliable. The milder climate (in Greenlandic terms) graces the southwest and western coasts, where most people live, but even reaching neighbouring towns requires a plane, helicopter, or boat. A ferry from Nuuk to Ilulissat, for instance, departs on Friday evenings and arrives on Sunday mornings—making quick coffee runs a fantasy in Greenland.

Life or Survival in the North

A visit to Greenland reveals the stark realities of life in the north, where nature reigns supreme. Climate and geography dictate accessibility and lifestyle. Without ice, only a narrow coastal strip remains, covered in low vegetation. The south is home to juniper and berries, while the north is limited to grasses and mosses. This tundra supports diverse wildlife, including rodents, hares, foxes, reindeer, and polar bears. The surrounding seas are teeming with seals, walruses, and whales, and over 200 species of birds grace the shores. The Inuit have mastered the art of utilizing their environment, ensuring survival through hunting, fishing, and gathering. Sadly, this was not the fate of the Vikings, who mysteriously vanished after about 200 years of settlement in the south.

More than 60 Villages, More than 60 Shades of Life

Stretching 2,670 kilometres from north to south, Greenland’s villages showcase a remarkable variety of natural and living conditions. Even near Nuuk, these differences are palpable. A must-do in Nuuk is a trip to Nuuk Fjord, the second-largest fjord system in the world. Sailing through icebergs and alongside steep cliffs with cascading waterfalls offers breathtaking views and a palette of nature’s colours, all accompanied by a serene silence. A perfect way to conclude a fjord exploration is to land in Kapisillit, where a brief walk and lunch in this quaint village—complete with a shop, school, and church—awaits. Here, the social scene differs significantly; coffee dates and bar outings are not the norm. Another enchanting stop is Qoornoq, a picturesque village that has been uninhabited since 1972 but is now a popular summer retreat. The fjord journey is heavily influenced by weather, temperatures, and the captain’s skills. With a daring and experienced captain, you might even navigate through the ice and catch glimpses of reindeer, whales, seals, and various birds.

Greenlandic Flavors

If Scandinavia is considered expensive, Greenland takes it to another level. Fishing and hunting dominate the local economy, especially in remote areas, where these activities are vital for survival. Almost everything else is imported, primarily from Denmark. Prices for fruits and vegetables (which are almost always packaged) are shockingly high, while locally sourced meat and fish are somewhat more affordable.

Where Does Santa Really Live?

According to locals, the real Santa Claus resides in Greenland. Whether you’re from Greenland or Denmark, there’s no doubt about it! As a passionate admirer of Santa Claus, I found this claim fascinating. While it’s well-known that he has an office in Lapland, Finland, locals insist he has an address in Ilulissat (Julemanden Box 785, 3952 Ilulissat) and a mailbox too. Personally, I maintain that he’s based in Finland—I’ve been there twice! But I acknowledge that interpretations of Santa’s home may vary across cultures.

Greenlandic Sled Dog

Dog sledding is a popular winter transport method in Greenland, and it’s also a significant tourist attraction. The Greenlandic Dog, an indigenous breed, is among the oldest, believed to be a mix between domestic dogs and wolves. Inuit tribes were the first to own this breed, which likely originated in Siberia thousands of years ago. Today, purebred Greenlandic Dogs are found only in the northern regions, as exports are banned to protect the breed’s integrity—a source of great pride for the Greenlanders.

Let Me Not Forget

Anyone who knows me—even just a little—will be aware of my passion for Nordic culture and my obsession with chasing the Northern Lights. After four trips to northern Europe in the fall and winter, I finally witnessed the “aurora borealis.” Standing beneath a sky illuminated by these dancing lights is a truly indescribable experience, unlike anything else. In Nuuk, we were lucky enough to see the Northern Lights all night long—a breathtaking phenomenon that captures the essence of winter in the north, something that no amount of words or photographs can fully convey.